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Why REvolution 3 Glue?

One of the many revolutions we encountered in table tennis was the invention of speed glue. What a great change to the game! The next revolution was the banning of speed glue by the ITTF. What a disappointment! The next revolution that followed was the invention of new rubbers and blades that compensated for the loss of speed glue. Some of this new equipment almost had better results than speed glue itself. And here we are today starting the next revolution. REvolution No. 3 Glue finally allows table tennis players to once again bring focus to the third most important part of a racket. The glue!

REvolution No.3 is the next generation of glue in table tennis because of its elastic properties. It is one of the highest performing and advanced water based glues in the industry.


One of the most important characteristics of table tennis rubber is dwell time. Dwell time is the amount of time a ball actually stays in contact with the rubber at impact. By varying the application of REvolution No. 3 you can increase the dwell time which can result in greater control and more spin. Once you have decided which blade and rubbers are optimal for your style of play, you can then fine tune their playing characteristics. This is done by using additional applications of the glue to change the thickness of the elastic, adhesive film.

REvolution No. 3 forms a tough, elastic adhesive film when dry. The elasticity is consistent from application to application which results in uniform playing characteristics you can rely on.

Other glues (like the old speed glue) have properties similar to plastic and don't yield the same results as that of an all natural rubber glue like REvolution No. 3. Each layer of glue forms a compact layer with a specific thickness that enhances the rubber. Repeated application will not damage your rubber sheets.

Each layer of REvolution No. 3 provides a fine tuned adjustment to the dwell time of the rubber that can accommodate any level of player. It is this adjustment that is the most important characteristic of the glue that can really make a difference in your play.

REvolution No. 3 is not simply another glue to hold your rubber sheets in place. Rather it is a product that marries the rubber to the blade in such a way as to make the elastic properties of two completely different surfaces appear to be the same. Everyone understands that a quality elastic layer between rubber and blade is best for improved speed and spin.


1. Are the performance characteristics of REvolution No. 3 glue affected by the viscosity I choose? (normal, medium or high)

No! The adhesion, drying time and elasticity of the final glue layer are not affected by the glue viscosity you choose. But the performance characteristics are affected by the thickness of the glue layer (one or more layers)

We designed the different viscosities to accommodate easier application of the glue and to help make a more uniform layer when applied. However, even with the high viscosity version you can still obtain a thin and uniform layer. We recommend normal viscosity for its self leveling capability.

2. How many layers of glue you can put on the rubber and blade?

If you use the proper amount for each layer (around 1 ml), you can apply 4-5 layers on the rubber and 2 layers on blade. Even with 7 layers of glue the whole thickness will still be under 0.1 mm. This is particularly the case when you use the racket press overnight.

3. What is the best way to dry the glue?

It is always better to let the glue dry naturally. It shouldn't take any more than 15-20 minutes per layer and allows the glue to dry uniformly. The idea is to avoid having an undried layer under a dried layer. This can happen if you don't pay close attention to drying with a hair dryer. The same thing can happen if you apply a layer that is too thick and use a “high” heat level on the hair dryer or hold the hair dryer too close to the rubber. The glue will be transparent when completely dried.

4. When Is the glue set? Under what conditions?

This glue sets much more slowly than other glues so until it is completely dry you can add or adjust the glue layer . If you are going to apply more than one layer, use a clean end of the application sponge for each layer. Be sure to thoroughly wash the sponge after use. Squeeze as much water out of the sponge as you can. By the time the sponge is dry and ready to use again the glue will also be dry on your blade or rubber.

If you let the sponge sit for 30 minutes or more without washing, you can still wash the sponge but some of the set glue will remain on the sponge. It is best to thoroughly wash the sponge after each use.

5. How do you use the sponge and how to reuse it?

Since this glue is slow to set you can add another layer or adjust your applied layer while it is still wet. Use either end of a clean and dried sponge applicator. When you have finished your layer or making your adjustment, be sure to wash the sponge thoroughly and squeeze out as much water as possible. When the sponge is dry your glue will also be dry.

If you forget to wash your sponge after 30 minutes or more, you can still wash it out but some of the set glue will remain in the sponge. Remove as much of the set glue as possible. If too much of the set glue remains in the sponge, simply trim the end of the sponge back. However, it is always best to thoroughly wash the sponge after each use to avoid this problem..

6. When do I have to peel off the layers of glue?

If you wanted more speed and spin but added too many layers of glue, you may want to remove all the layers and start over. You will know you have used too many layers when the performance results are less than you expected and the total glue layers exceed .08mm to .1mm in thickness. Re-apply your layers but keep an exact count of them. Then note the performance change. Stop adding layers once you have reached the number of layers that best suits your playing style.

7. Is it necessary to peel off and re-glue? When?

When you are in the process of testing you will know you have too many layers of glue when you can feel and hear that the ball no longer makes contact with the blade. Now you have to peel off all the layers and start over.

If you change rubbers it is better to peel off the old glue and start over again. However, you can preserve the original glue with another thin layer of glue if you want to reuse them.

You can also prepare and hold rubbers for final assembly. Apply all of your layers of glue to the rubber sheet and then use rubber protection sheets (foils) to protect the glued surface of the rubber sheet. When you are ready for assembly at your local sport hall simply apply a final layer to your blade, let dry and then install your rubber sheets.

8. How much can I apply in a single layer and how do I know if I have enough, too much or too little?

The ideal amount of glue is around 1 ml for one layer. It is enough to cover the entire surface of the blade or rubber sheet uniformly without any excess glue . If you have too much glue you can use the sponge to transfer the excess to the blade or another sheet of rubber. If you don't have enough glue you will see this as the glue is drying. Simply add a small quantity of glue to ensure a uniform layer.

9. How should I remove rubbers from blade?

Always start from the handle and remove diagonally and upward across the blade. Do it gently in order not to damage the wood fibers of the blade and to preserve the adhesive layers.

Also, be sure to rub/clean the blade with your hand. Some glue may remain on the blade from previous applications after you remove the rubber. You may need to use a special piece of felt. The blade should feel smooth and delicate.

After you remove the rubber you can use the preserved glue layer(s) to build on which is ideal because it is already dry. Now all you need to do is apply a layer of glue to a different blade, let it dry and install the rubber.

10. How do I remove the glue from the rubber sheet to avoid damage to the sponge?

If you need to remove the glue because there is damage on the outer edges or you simply want to remove the glue, the thickness of the glue layer will allow you to peel it off in seconds. It should come off mostly in one piece because of the high elasticity of the glue. The best way to do this and avoid damage to the sponge is to start rubbing with your finger at the bottom edge of the sponge where it met the top edge of the handle. Start by slowly rubbing with your finger until you can pull the glue layer away from the sponge. Pull slowly and continuously to avoid damaging the sponge. The glue is designed to be easily removed and not damage the sponge. If the glue layer you are trying to remove is not thick enough to remove easily, then apply another layer or two, let dry and then start the process again.

11. How do I protect the blade?

Usually blades are lacquered from the factory. If not, a special lacquer must be used to at least seal the handle. In one year the weight of a blade can increase by 5 grams or more. The center of gravity will move and the blade will have more control, less speed and more weight which will change your strokes.

12. How do I repair the blade?

If part of the blade is damaged, use a mixture of very fine wood dust (small part) with wood glue (glue, EVA) to make a paste with which you fill the holes. Let the wood glue dry and then use a fine grit sandpaper to smooth any rough areas.

13. How do I protect my rubber sheets?

You can preserve your rubber sheets and have them ready to be used again even if you have glue on the sponge side. This can be done by applying a rubber protection film (foil) on the glued sponge side and then cleaning the rubber side with the REvolution No. 3 Cleaner and Rejuvenator. Then apply a second protection film (foil) to the rubber side. You can then repeat this process by applying a glued sponge side from a second sheet of rubber to the top of the protection film you just installed on the previous rubber side. Clean the rubber side and install another film. Kind of like building a sandwich.

14. How do I use my roller to correctly press a rubber sheet to the blade?

Grasp the rubber on each side lightly so the glued side is facing the blade. Curl the rubber backwards from left to right and center the bottom edge of rubber sheet just above the top edge of the handle. Now lightly touch the bottom edge of the rubber to the blade, The very bottom of the edge should now be the only contact the rubber has to the blade. Do not let the rest of the sheet come in contact with the blade. Now grasp the top of the sheet lightly with one hand making sure you curl the rubber back so it does not come in contact with the blade. Place your roller horizontally just above the handle and roll up towards the top of the blade while keeping the rubber curled backward. Press firmly but not too hard to depress the rubber sheet. Next, roll the rubber from right to left and then left to right. Again, not too firmly. Then allow the roller to overhang the edge of the blade. Now roll the edges of the blade a little more firmly than your previous rolling. This will make a good seal at the edges. Time for trimming!

15. How do I cut the rubber?

Use a cutting knife with a new, very sharp blade on a cutting board or rubber trimming scissors like the REvolution No. 3 Curved Scissors. They will help you cut exactly along the contour of the blade.

When cutting with scissors, do not push the scissors into the rubber, since the rubber might detach from the blade. We recommend a gentle, continuous cutting stroke along small sections of the rubber sheet.

16. How do I use the press and why?

The press is used to obtain a more compact and uniform layer of glue. It also improves adhesion. This is particularly important when applying 2 layers on the blade and 2 to 4 layers on the sponge of the rubber sheet. The even pressure the press can apply makes for a much more consistent thickness of the final glue layer across the entire bond between blade and sponge.

It is well known that any surface (even glass) is not perfectly smooth and continuous. By using the press we obtain greater uniformity and better adhesion. Most importantly, the press helps to create the perfect interface between the blade and the rubber using an elastic glue layer. A calculable, perfect interface that can boost your racket performance.

Perfect elasticity, ideal uniformity and excellent adhesion makes the REvolution No. 3 Gluing System a requirement as the active third part of your racket.

17. What is the recommended weight of the racket?

For most offensive rackets the recommended weight is 175-190 grams. For defenders, 145-175 grams. Usually Chinese players have heavier rackets weighing from 180-210 grams.

18. How do I choose my blade and rubbers?

Usually, depending on each player's style, you combine hard blades with softer rubbers or softer blades with harder rubbers. Forehand rubbers are usually harder than backhand rubbers. I always recommend 1.9 to 2.0 mm thickness for the backhand and sometimes for the forehand. For amateurs or beginners I recommend rubbers of 1.5 to 1.8 mm thickness. For blades, I recommend All+, Off- or Off. Blade stiffness can range from medium (some vibration) to stiff. If possible, use a blade with a linear response. These types of blades will provide better control and more dwell time when combined with hard rubbers and the use of REvolution No. 3 Glue.

Chinese players prefer hard Chinese rubbers on the forehand with a linear response for better control on short shots and increased power during rallies . Be sure to note that Chinese players are physically trained to use this kind of equipment. New players adopting the use of this type of equipment should use caution because the equipment could cause serious injuries to the shoulder .

19. How do I get more speed, spin and control?

By choosing the right setup of blade and rubbers and then combining it with the correct number of layers of REvolution No. 3 Glue. With the application of our glue up to the maximum thickness of 0.1 mm you can achieve much greater speed, spin and control. When the glue is applied properly and thoroughly dried the performance and the sound of the racket are exactly what everybody wants.

20. How do I clean sponges glued with other glues?

There are many glues on the market that have too much adhesion and are too soft. This makes them more difficult to remove. However, you can add 1 or 2 layers of the REvolution No. 3 Glue on these other glues (on sponge and on blade-if necessary) to help with the removal. The new glue will bond with the old glue making it much easier to remove the old glue. If you are still having problems with the old glue, repeat this process. Add another layer or two of glue, let dry and try removing again. The old and new glues should peel without any problem.

21. What if I transport at -20 Degrees Celsius (-4 Fahrenheit)?

REvolution No.3 Glue can be easily transported during the winter because it is resistant to freezing down to -20 degrees Celsius (-4 F). The normal storage temperature should be in the 15 to 30 degree Celsius range (59 - 86 F).

22. My rubber sheets are not adhering to my blade as well I as I expected especially along the edges. Why?

Some blades are lacquered at the factory making it a little more difficult to get a good bond with REvolution No. 3 Glue. To eliminate this problem, lightly sand the blade using a high grit sandpaper (180 to 240) to roughen the surface a little before applying the glue. Be sure to remove any dust with a clean rag. This will definitely improve the adhesion of the glue to the blade without doing any damage to the blade.

Avoid gluing multiple layers in a sport hall where there can be too much moisture. Also avoid gluing if you just finished playing and are sweating. It is possible the glue will not completely dry in a moist environment in a normal period of time. It is possible a non-adhesive film could form on the blade or rubber especially along the edges in a moist environment. See question 7 on how to store and have rubber sheets ready to change in the sport hall.

When you install rubber sheets to the blade be certain to not tension them in any way. Not only can this cause adhesion problems but doing so could also be a violation of ITTF rules.

When you cut newly installed rubber sheets I suggest you use our REvolution No. 3 Curved Scissors. Avoid pulling the rubber sheet away from the blade while cutting with scissors or a knife. Also avoid pushing on the rubber with your fingers while cutting. It may damage the bond with the blade as well.

Always use a roller to install your rubber sheets. And, we always recommend using the REvolution No. 3 Rubber Press to get the best adhesion possible, the most uniform layers of the glue and the best performance from your racket.

Always let REvolution No. 3 Glue dry completely. The glue is transparent once it is thoroughly dry.

Use a thinner layer for the final layer of glue. It will give you better adhesion.

When you need to make a repair, gently remove the rubber sheets preserving the glue layers on the sponge. Do not peel them off of the sponge. Now apply a thin layer of glue on the blade. Wait until the glue layer becomes transparent . This can range from 30 to 60 minutes depending on your environment. Re-install the rubber sheets to the blade being careful to not stretch the rubber. Use your roller and then insert the racket in the press overnight. You'll have a perfect rubber installation ready to go the next morning.

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